Friday
Located on the central Algarve coast near the small fishing village of Benagil, the Benagil Caves (Algar de Benagil) are one of Portugal’s most famous natural landmarks. Carved by centuries of wind and sea erosion, the caves form a series of dramatic sea grottoes along the limestone cliffs between Carvoeiro and Armação de Pêra.
The most iconic of these is the Benagil Sea Cave, featuring a vast domed chamber with a circular opening in its roof — known as “the eye” — that lets sunlight stream onto the golden sand and turquoise water below. Accessible only from the sea, visitors can reach it by kayak, paddleboard, or boat from nearby beaches such as Praia de Benagil or Praia do Carvalho.
The surrounding coastline is equally stunning, with hidden beaches, rock arches, and clear waters perfect for exploring by boat or on foot along the Seven Hanging Valleys Trail. The Benagil Caves showcase the Algarve’s dramatic coastal beauty and remain one of the region’s must-see natural attractions.
B
Dolphins
Our niece, Georgina, recently stayed in our apratment for the first time in, maybe, 20 years. One of the first things she did was book a Boat Trip and we thought “why don’t we ever do that”. So we did. Without fear of the wild sea and it’s coastline, we bravely set off in life jackets and with 50+ intrepid souls.
This was not a gentle sail to a delightful grotto. As soon as we left the marina our skipper, O Capitão, opened up the powerful engines, the bow lifted and we roared across the bay with saltwater being flung in our eyes. The crew even handed out jackets, to keep us warm, dry or both, but of course us resilient English politely declined.
After about 45 minutes, during which time a Tall Ship on the distant horizon became ever closer, the skipper cut the engines, the bow sunk, and before us was another tourist boat surrounded by dolphins.
The next 20 minutes was akin to firework night, November the 5th. Every time a dolphin broke the surface, our boat issued a collective “arghh” as if a star burst rocket had just exploded.
A pod of dolphins played arouund our boat, and the hightlight was when one whizzed past at close quarters. That resulted in an “ARGHH”.
The Caves
The skipper fired up the engines again, up we lifted and once again this brave band set off. Would there be pirates? Who knew, but we were ready if there were.
The coastline from afar, and as we approach, is spectcular. You can clearly see lots of caves and inaccessible beaches.
The first call is actually the Cave of Benagil, which is found not far from the fishing village of Benagil. Apparently, back in the day, it was often used by smugglers to store their contraband.
Tourist boats take turns to pull into the cave, even a boat as large as ours. The skipper gently nudges forward, until the “Eye” of the cave can be clearly seen. This is a round hole in the cliff that allows sunlight to stream in and reflect off the golden sand and the turquoise waters lapping on to it.
As we reverse out, 2 or 3 more boats are awaiting their turn, some quite small with half a dozen people, and others as large as ours. In addition kayakers and paddle boarders also float into the cave. A brilliant experience. Some even took their jackets off.
From the cave we gently motor back down this part of the coast exploring, from more disance, other caves and beaches, as well as The Thiefs Stack (Leixão do Ladrão), where we are delighted to see a cormorant resting by its side.
With that, we power back across the bay to Vilamoura, where our entrance to the marina gives us the same thrill we have always experienced when we are on its water, be it sail boat, tourist boat or aqua taxi. We are home and unharmed.
A pint in O Neills (well, ok, two), rounds off a very enjoyable afternoon.
